Do you know where
the Tokara islands are?
I think most people, even Kagoshima local people, may not know about the
islands. In Japan, there are uncountable islands. However, Tokara are
remote islands even among those islands. Tokara islands or Toshima islands
(formally Toshimamura) are located between Yakushima and Amami Oshima.
The Tokara island group consists of 12 islands including 5 deserted islands.
Less than 1000 people live on the 7 islands of Tokara; Kuchinoshima, Nakanoshima,
Tairajima, Suwanosejima, Akusekijima, Kodakarajima and Takarajima.
The only transportation to Tokara islands is by ferry which run between
Kagoshima City and the islands a few times a week. However, the ferry
doesn't run for a week when it is bad weather or typhoon. In the Tokara
islands, the ferry is a very important part of people's life. The sea
around Tokara islands is the confluence of the Pacific ocean and the East
China ocean. Therefore, various fish can be seen. Tokara is a treasure
trove of fish. Tokara is one of the best fishing points in Japan.
There are many beautiful Southern resort islands like Yakushima, Amami
islands, and Okinawa. However, Tokara are real islands with pure nature.
There are almost no tourists, and inconvenient transport. Therefore, there
is abundant nature, typical creatures, and a special culture which was
influenced by North Japan (Yamato) and South Japan (Ryukyu) remaining
on the islands. More over, there are only beautiful blue oceans, blue
sky and time....
It is said that Tokara is Japan's last mysterious region. Some people
say there is nothing on the islands. But some people say there is everything
on the islands. Depending what you want to see, you will have a different
viewpoint of the islands.
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NAKANOSHIMA
One weekend, I had a chance to visit Nakanoshima, one of the Tokara islands.
It was a exciting trip to visit an unknown island for me. And I knew it
would be an island I would otherwise have never seen. The large
ferry "Toshima" departs Kagoshima port for the islands at around
midnight. In the quiet night, a lit up ferry was waiting us. To my surprise,
there were many passengers. Most are men who visit the islands for fishing
for the weekend. And some are local people from the islands carrying lots
of luggage (I guess, many souvenirs inside). The ferry also ships a lot
of cargo. At 11:50 p.m., the ferry departs the City.
The bay and scenery in the night was so quiet and peaceful. There was only
the sound of water and the ferry. Before the ferry began pitching with waves,
I was already in bed to avoid seasickness. The voyage takes about 6 hours
for the first island to 13 hours for the last island. My destination Nakanoshima
was the second island from the North. The ferry arrived at Nakanoshima at
around 7 o'clock in the morning.
Nakanoshima is the biggest island in the Tokara island group. In the middle
of the island, Otake volcanic mountain which is 979 m high rises. It looks
like a green mountain floating on the ocean from the ferry. The scenery
was dynamic! The village of Nakanoshima was much smaller than I expected.
The island's main road is a narrow one lane track. I had heard that there
was nothing, but truly there were no shops. No restaurants, no bakery shops,
no book stores, or convenience stores... nothing. Even vending machines
which are usually seen anywhere in Japan were absent. Maybe it is the one
of the attractive things about the island. On the island, there are some
minshuku (family inns), free hot-springs, and some sightseeing facilities
like the historical museum and astronomical observatory. At the historical
museum, you can learn everything about Tokara islands. History, nature,
culture and people's life. It was worth visiting. One of the beautiful things
about the island are stars. Stars from the island are really gorgeous! It
looked like stars were falling over me and felt like I could touch the stars.
You can experience real star light not moon light. In the South East of
the island, there is Yaruse light house on the Seri cape. The view of a
white light house and the blue ocean looks like a scene from the Mediterranean.
It is needless to say that the island is full of nature. Mountains, various
plants, special animals, coral and beautiful blue sea. On the foot of the
mountains, greenery highland and pasture spread out. You will see black
cows, tokara horses and tokara goats around the island. Tokara horses are
smaller than normal. There is nature unique to Tokara.
The sea around Tokara is a treasure trove of fish, coral and creatures.
Beautiful pure nature stays in Tokara, because the islands don't attract
mass tourism. However, many fishermen and divers come to islands for the
Tokara's sea throughout the year.
There are two hot springs near the port. Those hot springs are small,
but clean and good. And it's open 24 hours and Free! (But it would be
nice of you, if you pay a little.)
Even in the biggest island Nakanoshima, only about 170 people live. Most
of residents are middle aged to old people, children and construction
people. There is only one small school of elementary and junior high school.
There are no shops on the island. Therefore, people order and buy everything
direct from the shops in Kagoshima City. Everything is delivered by ferry.
The ferry is the most important life line for the island's people.
"Ping pong pang pong... the ferry Toshima left Tairajima at 11:30
a.m...." Suddenly there was an announcement from a speaker. Every
house on the island possess a community broadcasting system. Everyday,
ferry and island information is broadcast throughout the island. One night,
there was an announcement about stars and the moon by the radio. This
is island's culture. People help each
other, and they possess tie strong and warm.
Although there are many problems like transportation, education, medical
situation, and a decreasing population, there are beautiful examples of
nature, warm people and a simple life. On the island, I realized how easy
our life is, and how we are surrounded by too many things. Personally,
I don't want the islands to be over run by tourists. Because I want islands
left as they are. The Tokara islands are the last mysterious islands.
(Y.N.)
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